Tag: Rome

  • Roma blogging: mercoledi — cena, or “Trampin-in-Trastavere”

    We begin the evening with more superlatives. By all accounts, the best gelato in Rome is to be found at il Gelato di San Crispino. We almost miss the little hole-in-the-wall joint. Expecting to encounter a huge line, having arrived at 18:00, we find the place empty. Told by a sign to take a number,…

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  • Roma blogging: martedi — cena

    After the requisite siesta, sorry, don’t know if that’s Italian or not and too tired right now to look it up, we went directly across the street to Harry’s Bar. What a fantastic bar and what a shame it attracts such a lame clientelle these days. If tonight was representative at all, that is. The…

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  • Roma blogging: mercoledi — pranzo

    (Backwards blogging until I get caught up.) When Elizabeth and Richard were in town in 1963 filming Cleopatra, they used to eat often at Taverna Flavia. Good enough reason to try it out? Not really, but we wanted something in the hood that wasn’t lousy with Americans. This place fit the bill perfectly. Not a…

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  • Roma blogging: martedi — pranza

    We were actually looking for Da Baffetto, which turns out not to open for lunch. Instead, we headed into Cul de Sac, an enoteca near Piazza Navona. Started with some black olives (again) and some great shaved smoked tuna. Might mistake it for ham if you saw it on the plate. Delicious! Then I had…

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  • Intermezzo

    How’s this for a trifecta: Thursday night: dinner in Rome Friday night: dinner in Paris Saturday night: dinner in New York I have finally lived up to my Jet-Set moniker.

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  • Roma blogging: giovedi. Ciao, Roma!

    Again craving something simple and hearty, a pizza perhaps, we acted on a tip from the distinguished Romaphiles, PL & PM, and headed back to Piazza Navona to Da Francesco. No pizza at lunch (a conspiracy to not fire up the ovens during the day?), so spaghetti for both of us. Cacio e pepe for…

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